The Set-Up

Yup, you read correctly. This gem of a joint serves up sustainable, locally sourced gourmet burgers, tacos, salads, etc. with a side of carwash and laundromat. There’s a bar out back pouring local brews and vino, and a stage for evening entertainment. Place your order at the counter up front by the laundromat, then seat yourself inside at the long string of tables or outside in the shade. It was 102*, and we opted for air conditioning.

The Meal

As we were following the suggestion of the lamb rancher, himself, I ordered the cumin-scented lamb burger on ciabatta with sweet potato fries, and Trent opted for the bison burger with fries and a Rio Blanco Pale Ale. We halved and shared. Unscripted, we both took a bite and grunted through a mouthfull of food, “Oh my god.” And then we scarfed with abandon. Totally sated and in a foodie stupor, we tried to figure out how often we could reasonably pull off the hour and a half drive from our house back to The Cove on a regular basis.

Anyone up for a burger trip to San Antonio? Feel free to pack a laudry bag. This place is super family friendly: beer for Dad, playscape for Junior, and junk food you can feel good about eating.

The Cove
606 W. Cypress
San Antonio, TX
210-227-2683

So, we’re pretty much in Mexico right now?

On our trip down to Mission, TX, to visit with Dennis Holbrook of South Tex Organics, Mr. Trent was in a constant state of awe at our proximity to our south-of-the-border neighbors. Not only that, but it was fascinating to see how citrus groves were embedded as part of the landscape. The view from the car window went a little something like this: house, house, citrus grove, house, auto repair shop, house, citrus grove, citrus grove, carniceria, house, citrus grove.

It’s All About the Dirt.

Mr. Holbrook was more than generous with his time and fruit (pounds and pounds of in-season oranges!), but the most eye-opening part of our visit was when he took us to one of his groves where the lemons were as big as cantaloups. This organic meyer lemon grove was just across a little irrigation canal from a conventionally grown (with chemical fertilizers, pesticides, etc.) grove, and once glance at the soil was enough to realize the discrepancy between the two. See for yourself. Both groves started in the same Rio Grande dirt, but which one looks like the healthier, more nutrient-rich soil to you?

Why does it matter? Aside from the whole taking care of the planet argument, replenishing the soil with organic matter in turn nourishes the plant, thus enriching the taste of the fruit that comes from it. The flavor of South Tex Organics citrus is unlike any other produced in the U.S., and because the soil is higher in nutrient content, the organically grown fruit tends to have more vitamin C and antioxidants, too. (But mostly the taste thing.)

You can find South Tex Organics citrus in season at Whole Foods (who were carrying the company’s products before “Ferris Bueller’s Day Off” was released in theaters), or you can have it delivered to your door by ordering online at stxorganics.com. ChkaChkachkaaaaa.

If you guessed the first two, you’re obviously not from around here.

The Family Business

Loncito Cartwright is a self-proclaimed grass farmer who just happens to be raising some of Texas’s most delicious grass-fed lamb at the family ranch in Dinero, TX. His father, Lon Cartwright, Sr., has been a cattle rancher at Twin Oaks Ranch since 1939, first for his uncle, then for himself. When we asked Loncito why he chose to focus on lamb, he replied with a shrug, “I just picked lamb because I like red wine.” Lon, Sr., told us that when Loncito first announced that he was going to be raising lamb, he chuckled, “I disowned him.” Loncito later mentioned, “Everyone in the business has some unfair advantage. My dad is mine.”

You Know You Want It

If you live in the Austin area, you can meet Loncito yourself at the Sunset Valley Farmer’s Market every Saturday morning. He should be wearing those trademark black RayBans. You can find his lamb at the Wheatsville Coop on Guadelupe, or order it from several Austin menus including that of Olivia on South Lamar and Kerby Lane Cafes, and from San Antonio menus like that of The Cove.

There was so much more, but space is running out. I’ll try to squeeze it all into the book.

PS: I don’t have pictures of the lamb lollipops he sent home with us because we devoured them before the camera even had a chance. This is roughly how I cooked them: Chop up 4 cloves garlic with leaves from 3 sprigs rosemary, kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Smush (that’s right, smush) it all together with some extra virgin olive oil until it starts to look like pesto, and rub it on both sides of the lamb lollipops. Sear in a skillet (or hot, hot grill) over high heat for 2-3 min per side. You still want the middle to be pink, so we’re aiming for medium-rare here. Let rest (if you can stand it) for 5 minutes before serving. Figure on 3-4 lollipops per person, depending on what else you’re serving.

What is it?

Community Supported Agriculture is essentially a subscription to your local farm, in which you receice, on a weekly or bi-monthly basis, a portion of whatever fruits and veggies are grown during each season–yes, produce DOES grow in the winter, too. “Plus” shares often include goodies like eggs, jams, pickles & pestos, and some farms include freshly baked bread or locally pastured meats. Not only do you get a slice of the weekly harvest, but your subscription provides the farm with a predictable income, no matter what Mother Nature may throw at them that year.

Why bother?

Seasonal = Fresh. The veggies come out of the ground that morning, just a few miles away, not in another country two weeks ago. I’m learning how to cook what my family has now coined “real food” with vegetables that a few months ago I would have walked right past in the grocery store. My money stays in the local economy, and I love knowing my farmer. Gary Rowland knows I get excited about oddly-shaped produce, so he sends the frankenstein turnips home with me. When I ask him about an unfamiliar vegetable, he not only tells me how to cook it, but sends me home with an extra one.

How to find local CSAs near you:

localharvest.org and eatwild.com will show everything in your zip code or within a radius. Nothing near you? Check out greenling.com, a delivery service that will bring the farm to you (if you live in the Dallas, Austin or San Antonio area), or look into your local farmer’s market or farm stand. Ask around and see what you can get. I just found out that the local feed store here sells farm fresh eggs–blue, white, and brown huevos for $2.50 a dozen! And it never hurts to ask your grocer if they stock any locally grown/raised/made goods. Hopefully, when we finish the book, we’ll have specific recommendations for your area of Texas.

What if I don’t eat that much?

Many farms offer half shares, or you could find a neighbor/friend/mother-in-law that would be willing to split the box. Your farmer might have another subscriber who would be willing to split, or you could donate the extras to your local food bank.

What if I don’t know how to cook what’s it he box?

Farmers will often include recipes with your share of goodies, but if I still don’t know, I usually go online (FoodNetwork is my favorite) and type in the name of the mystery ingredient, then choose from a variety of recipes. Or just send me an e-mail, and I’ll tell you how I cook it!

1. CSA Membership

Basically a subscription to local farms, Community Supported Agriculture gives the shareholder a season or year’s worth of locally grown food. Basic shares, like those from our Hairston Creek Farm CSA, include a bushel of organically grown produce, but if you’re in the Austin area, I recommend Farmhouse Delivery, which bundles locally produced meats, dairy, bread, etc. into your weekly delivery as well, saving you a trip to the farmer’s market. To find a CSA in your area, check out www.localharvest.org.

2. Holiday Spirits

Premium potables like Austin’s own award-winning Tito’s Vodka and Treaty Oak Rum (a premium silver rum made from Texas-grown and Texas-milled sugar cane) top my party supply lists on a regular basis and are available at most local Texas liquor stores. Be on the look out for Garrison Brother’s Texas Bourbon Whiskey, from Texas’s first (legal) bourbon distillery, allegedly scheduled to hit the shelves in 2011.

3. Grassfed Goodness

Every year we try to convince my parents that all my husband wants for Christmas is meat. My sister and her husband have picked up on this rather well, as evidenced by the 12 quail he received this year (gracias Megan and Jimmy!). Thanks to ranchers like Jon and Wendy Taggert of Burgundy Pasture Beef, we can get grass-fed beef, lamb, and pork delivered to our door in a couple of clicks. I send chops, steaks, and roasts to family and friends year-round. My Dad is especially fond of the bone-in ribeye steaks. Next-day nationwide delivery. Excellent customer service.

4. Cheese

Tell your mom that instead of saying it, you want to eat it. The Houston Dairymaids will pack and ship Texas cheese gift boxes (have them choose or create your own). While all of their selections are outstanding, I would request Veldhuizen Farmstead Cheese (Redneck Cheddar and Bosque Blue are my favorites), CheesyGirl Cheese Co’s scantily clad chevre, Buff, and CKC’s Baby Blue or Baby Caprino goat cheeses.

5. Texas Olive Oil

Ubiquitous in the kitchen. The perfect hostess gift, Texas Olive Ranch olive oil is a no-brainer. Buy at your local HEB/Central Market or order online.

6. A Cuppa

For New Year’s morning (or afternoon, for some), a fresh cup of coffee from Austin Coffee Roasting Company, or cleansing tea from Zhi Tea is a must-have for holiday recovery. Whole bean is the way to go for optimal flavor, and grinders are easy to use and inexpensive.

7. Classes

Perhaps you are already privy to offerings from certain restaurants or ateliers, but for the rest of us, all Central Market locations regularly offer informal cooking classes for aspiring chefs of all levels. Reserve multiple places and make it a date or a party. I think Whole Foods offers classes in Austin and Plano only.

8. A Field Experience

Give the gift of an exquisite meal, prepared from entirely local ingredients, and whose table is set anywhere from a field on a local farm to the Hotel St. Cecelia. I hesitate to disclose the following information for fear that I will no longer be able to reserve a seat. In the spirit of Christmas, however, I give you this: Dai Due Supper Club. Austin area only, but sooooooo worth the trip across the state. If anyone knows of something similar in the Houston or Dallas area, by all means, divulge.

9. Beer, glorious beer!

Mr. Alfred P. Dolittle certainly had it right. My fail-safe gift for guys is beer and potato chips. I recommend St. Arnold’s of any variety, though the Christmas Ale and Winter Stout are in season as I type. Available at grocery and liquor stores statewide.

10. Give Hope

Watch out, here comes my soapbox: I like to think that those who understand the joys of food and the global impact of our food choices appreciate the gift of giving families not only a food source of their own, but means to a livelihood. As little as $20 buys a flock of chicks at Heifer International. Give in honor of your favorite foodie.

Happy Holidays!

Sign Up N-O-W

Deadline for signing up is January 1. Get on it. Details at FarmhouseDelivery.com.

What can I get?

Seasonal veggies and fruit plus any extras you want to add on: meat & poultry, bread & pastries, cheese, coffee and other beverage-related items, not to mention basic pantry goods like Texas olive oil, vinegars, etc.–all produced in the Lone Star State.

Photo by Jody Horton